Sunday, October 24, 2010

Twain’s Feast Revisited

Hot Springs, Arkansas
Christmas, 1875

While touring Europe with his family in 1878 and 1879, Mark Twain filled many notebooks for his travelogue A Tramp Abroad. Much of what he wrote during the sixteen-month journey was never published, including his comparisons of European and American homes and transportation. Fortunately, however, his observations about food made it into the final manuscript. Under the guise of having grown weary of the “monotonous variety of unstriking dishes” served in European hotels, Twain declared: “It has now been many months, at the present writing, since I have had a nourishing meal, but I shall soon have one—a modest, private affair, all to myself. I have selected a few dishes, and made out a little bill of fare, which will go home in the steamer that precedes me, and be hot when I arrive…”1 What followed was an iconic list of eighty American foods that somehow defined a national cuisine.

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Not Much On The Menu

New York City, 
2010


In August 2009, restaurant critic Frank Bruni awarded Eleven Madison Park a perfect four stars in the New York Times. The restaurant, which opened in 1998, was now ranked “among the most alluring and impressive restaurants" in the city. What brought Bruni “particular joy” was the fact that Eleven Madison Park had gotten better and better over a long period of time. Principal owner Danny Meyer and his team continued to make improvements even during the Great Recession, when most restaurateurs were battening down the hatches. The hard work has continued to pay off. In April 2010, the restaurant was named as one of the "World’s 50 Best Restaurants" on San Pellegrino's annual list compiled by Restaurant Magazine.

In September of that year, Eleven Madison Park went exclusively to a tasting format. The change is reflected in a new minimalist menu, the antithesis of the text-heavy style that has been popular for so long. Yet in the warm and inviting context of Eleven Madison Park, the new menu strikes me as a bit austere. Stylistically, it is more reminiscent of a word game than a menu that’s fun to ponder.