What’s in a Name? Everything.

San Francisco, 

1900-1908 

By 1900, Chinese restaurants were beginning to attract American-born middle-class diners. This shift occurred gradually as restaurant owners introduced dishes such as chop suey and chow mein to suit American tastes. Over time, these adaptations led to the addition of so-called “American dishes” to their menus. Two menus from a well-known Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, printed during the first years of the twentieth century, capture a pivotal moment in this transition. The restaurant changed a single letter in its name, signaling that it was now targeting a new, broader clientele. 

The restaurant was named Hong Far Low, meaning “Almond Blossom Fragrance” in the Taishanese dialect and “Red Flower” in Cantonese. Founded in 1867, it was located at 733 Dupont Street, the address printed on both menus. Because Dupont Street was renamed Grant Avenue in 1908, both menus must date from before that year. Measuring 5½ × 3½ inches, the menus feature a fold-out design. The earlier of the two is shown below. Although its bill of fare is relatively modest, the menu is complete, as indicated by the illustration on the final panel. 

By the time of the menu shown below, the restaurant had changed its name to Hang Far Low, a cheeky and intentional English-language pun. This bilingual double entendre stood in sharp contrast to the elegant, traditional meaning of the original Chinese name. Although this menu now consists of only four panels, it was originally longer. At some point during the past 120 years, it was separated at one of its folds, leaving only a portion of the original menu intact.

Other Chinese restaurants would also adopt the name Hang Far Low, one of the best-known examples being in Portland, Oregon. Variations on the theme also appeared, including Men Hong Low in Los Angeles during the late 1930s. By that time, however, the once-clever play on words was beginning to lose its novelty.